Junebug the Pit Nanny

Although people like Cesar Milan have made great strides in educating the world about Pit Bulls, there is still a lot of misinformation circulating about.  I'm always surprised to run across someone who thinks these animals are "born vicious".  This simply is not the case.  In my experience, Pits are some of the most loving, intelligent and loyal dogs around.  They get a bad rap because they are bred as fighting dogs and this actually has more to do with their physical attributes than anything else.  Once upon a time, Pit Bull's were considered America's dog and even lauded for being great with children. 

The beautiful Pit Bull pictured above is one such creature.   Her name is Junebug and she was adopted from a shelter by my friend, Dena, several years ago.  Junebug has become the most devoted guardian to Dena's new baby, Rowan. At about five weeks into Dena's pregnancy, Junebug began to customarily sleep with her head on Dena's tummy. At five months in, when the baby began to kick, Junebug would run in from the other room and lay next to Dena while it was happening. As Dena would say "She didn't want to miss it!"  Dena was away from home when she first went into labor.  According to the dog sitter, Junebug had been staring at sitter intensely all day and she wasn't sure why.

The moment baby Rowan was brought home from the hospital, Junebug's mothering instincts completely took over.  According to Dena, "She has been his best friend.  If she hears him make a noise, she comes from across the house to check on him. She doesn't bother him. Just looks at him and licks his feet. She sits by the changing table while I change his diaper and watches him in his swing. We had to teach her that watching too close stops the swing and show her where to sit. "  Dena also says that Junebug will come find her whenever Rowan wakes up.  She runs in the room and runs out again until Dena follows her lead.  One day when Rowan woke for a feeding, Junebug sensed he was hungry so she went to her food bowl, grabbed some kibble in her mouth, and then layed it at Rowan's feet. She knew by instinct what he needed in that moment even before his human Mommy had time to check.   Rowan doesn't know it yet, but he has a friend for life.  We should all be so lucky to have a Pit like Junebug in ours. 

Curing Separation Anxiety

Dogs love to be around us all the time.  They never need a break.  Sometimes though, this want to be with us can turn into an unhealthy state of mind known as separation anxiety.  If your dog barks incessantly, rips the molding off the door, or destroys your couch cushions whenever you leave the house, you know this condition all too well.  Separation anxiety can be cured but it does take a lot of patience and repetition.  Below are some things that you can do to help your pup out of this state of mind:

1) Don't make a big deal out of coming and going from your home.  For the last 15 minutes before you walk out the door, don't make eye contact or scratch him on the head.  Just walk out the door.  When you return, it's the same drill.  Wait at least 15 minutes to engage your pup in any way.  This is a really hard exercise to follow, especially at the end of the day.  Your dog is so happy to see you and you feel like you're letting him down.  Just keep his greater well-being in mind and soldier on. After 15 minutes, give him all the love and affection that you want. This is the single greatest exercise you can do to relieve his anxiety.

2) Pretend to leave and then don't.  Lace up your shoes, put on your coat and grab your keys.  Then, go make yourself a snack or sit down to read a book.  Your dog relies mostly on non-verbal communication.  He gets to see your routine everyday and he knows that when you reach for your wallet, you are headed out the door.  His anxiety begins there.  A simple practice is to keep your keys on a table near the door and then grab them periodically and jingle them without leaving.  Don't make eye contact with your dog during this exercise.  You are just systematically desensitizing him to those non-verbal cues.

3) Leave for short periods of time.  On the weekend, go get the mail and come right back.  Run to the store and come right back. We like to multi-task and do a lot of things at once.  Instead, for the next couple weeks, do each small task outside of your home individually.  That way, your pooch will realize that when you walk out the door, it won't be an eternity before you return.

4)Reward your dog when you leave.  Give your pup a treat when you leave for work in the morning.  My favorite is filling a Kong toy with smooth peanut butter, putting it in the freezer overnight, and then giving it to your dog as you walk out the door in the morning.  It's like a peanut butter popsicle and it takes him a long time to eat.  Your pup will begin to look forward to your leaving because he gets a treat. And, he'll be distracted during that very crucial time period right after you leave.  Most separation anxiety cases get to work on destroying things within a few minutes of their owner's departure.

5)Don't punish your dog for his anxiety. You come home and your brand new couch has been destroyed.  It's hard not to be upset. Yelling and punishing your dog only makes the anxiety worse though.  Chances are that your pup did his redecorating hours ago and he won't have the faintest idea of why you are mad. All he sees is that you entered the home and got really angry.  Now, he's even more anxious about your comings and goings.

6)Exercise!  The old adage that a tired dog is a happy dog is absolutely true.  Aim for at least an hour of exercise a day.  You can break up the time in any way you choose.  Turn that stroll into a brisk walk or play fetch.  Your pup will thank you.

7)Engage your dog's mind.  I know I bring this up a lot.  It's because this is one of the most overlooked ingredients to a happy dog. Teach your dog new commands.  Invent them if you want.  Hide treats around the house for your pup to find.  Play hide and seek with him.  Anything that requires your pup to use his brain goes a long way in making him a more relaxed pup.

If you follow all of these steps, you should see a significant improvement in your pup's behavior.  Before starting any of these tips, you should take your dog to the vet to rule out any ailments that may be causing anxiety.  As a last resort, your vet can also prescribe anti-anxiety medication.  I'm personally not a big fan of medicating dogs for behavioral issues unless it is absolutely necessary. Every drug comes with side-effects that can impact both your dog's physical health and personality.  If you do decide to choose this option, please research the drug on your own before administering.

The Interactive Dog Walk

Vince and Mom

We are all pressed for time and we all feel guilty that we don't spend enough of it with our furry companions.  Listed below are some ideas of how you can use that valuable walk time for more than just a bathroom break.  The urban landscape offers lots of things that you can use to create an obstacle course for your dog.  Creating both mental and physical challenges on the walk makes your pup happier and healthier.  As an added bonus, the more you teach your dog the more he will be inclined to listen to you indoors and out.

1. Use curbs and low walls (no higher than about 2 feet) as balance beams.  Invite your dog onto the wall by using the command "up"and giving a short tug upward onto the leash.  Guide them along the wall and then give the command "down" for them to jump down. Reward with lots of love or a treat. If they don't make it all the way to the end, go back to the beginning and start over.  If you have a small or miniature pup, please stick to the curb.  Little guys are fragile and it can be dangerous if they lose footing.

2. Use trees to train your dog to walk next to you.  Find several trees lined up in a row and weave in and out of them at a moderate pace.  Go just fast enough to keep Fido from being distracted by scents on the ground.  When you get to the last tree, turn quickly and weave back through.  Changing directions quickly and often teaches your dog to follow you.  As your dog learns, you can challenge him more by picking up the pace. 

3. Use a fallen tree branch or very low hanging limb (only about a foot off the ground) to teach your dog to jump.  Start about 15 feet away and walk quickly towards the branch.  When the limb is directly in front of you say "jump" and tug upwards on the leash.  Once on the other side, turn around immediately and do it again.  Repeat 5 or 6 times giving lots of affection or a treat after each completion. And I would advise walking around the limb yourself.  You'll be concentrating on your dog and therefore not on your own feet. :)

4. Use "sit", "stay", and  "come" to increase your dog's focus.  Have your dog sit, tell him to stay, give him the full length of the leash, wait a beat and then tell him to come.  Reward with treats or affection.  I would also recommend investing in a 20ft leash.  It's perfect for this exercise.  Start by giving your pup four feet of slack and build up to twenty.  You can use a sharpie to mark the leash off in 4 foot segments ahead of time if you want.  And you can make your dog "stay" for longer and longer lengths of time before you ask him to "come".  This exercise is great for teaching your dog to focus on you despite a myriad of distractions such as exciting scents, squirrels, garbage trucks, etc.

5. Train your dog to pee on command. It can be done. When you first exit your home, keep your dog on the sidewalk next to you, then pick a patch of grass, say "go pee", and release the slack in the leash.  After your dog pees, give him lots of affection.  Walk him next to you on the sidewalk again and then when you get to that tree that he always loves to mark, say "go pee", let him pee, and then immediately reward.  Just do this trick a couple of times each walk.  You want your pup to be able to do this exercise but still have the freedom to go on his own.  And it's best to do this at the beginning of the walk when you know he has to go.

6. Don't stop here.  Invent your own tricks! If you can think of it, teach it.  Just double-check that it's safe first.

Bringing Home Puppy

 Vida Las Vegas (pic by Steven Hoffmann)

One of my clients recently brought home a brand new bundle of joy and asked for advice about integrating her with their adult dog.  I thought I would take this opportunity to pass along these tips to you. 

1) Scent goes a long way.  Before puppy ever crosses your threshold, it's best if you start off the process by getting her used to the smells of her new companions.  If you can, go ahead and give the breeder a t-shirt, towel, or other article of clothing that contains both your scent and your adult dog's scent to put in puppy's bed.   
Likewise, see if you can get something from the breeder that has the puppy's scent on it and give it to your adult dog. When your adult dog is calm and relaxed just place the article in front of him and let him investigate.  Later on, put it in his bed so he'll get used to the pup's smell in what is basically his "den".  Dogs are very territorial about their dens so your adult dog needs to understand that puppy is part of the family not an intruder.   
If you can't get an article from the breeder ahead of time, then definitely grab one when you pick up your puppy to bring her home.  When she goes to bed the first night, it helps her to have the scent of her mother and littermates around her.  Ideally, it would ease the separation anxiety for the puppy if she could cuddle up with your adult dog on the first night.  Just see how the introduction goes and judge it from there.  If the dogs don't seem to get along like old pals on the first day, don't force it at bedtime.  Regardless of whether puppy ends up sleeping with the adult dog or not, you will want the puppy to sleep in your bedroom.  You are the new "mama" and she needs to be close to you.

2) When you first introduce adult to puppy, do it on neutral ground.  Introduce them in the park or even on the grass across the street and keep them both on a loose leash. Have the adult sit and then present the puppy's butt for him to sniff.  Then just put the puppy on the ground a few feet away and let the magic happen.  I wouldn't let any neighbors or random bystanders intrude on this moment.  It's very important that both dogs are relaxed and that you be relaxed as well.  Don't talk a lot.  Don't anticipate disaster.  Just tell yourself that it's the most natural moment in the world.  If you notice any growling, avoidance or wariness on the adult dog's part then just separate them, correct the behavior and start walking them together down the street a little ways with each dog on either side of you. No matter what happens, avoiding yelling at all costs.  Yelling only escalates the situation.  I would also take the adult dog on a long walk before leaving to get the puppy so that he'll be more relaxed.  And when you give the puppy affection make sure the adult gets equal attention.  This is really important for the first few weeks to avoid jealousy.

3) Let puppy get used to her new surroundings.  Let her sniff around your front yard before entering your home for the first time.  Put your adult dog in the backyard at this point or have someone take him for a walk.  Then, open the front door and let the puppy follow you in.  You can encourage her with treats if necessary.  Let her explore for a few minutes while still on a loose leash. Just follow her around and let her go where she wants. Then bring your adult dog in on leash.  Walk both dogs from room to room.  Then take them to your family area and let them off.

4) Remove any food bowls or toys from the floor as to not inspire territoriality. 

5) Keep an eye on both dogs during any new situation. These include going into the backyard for the first time, guests coming over, feeding time, etc.  It's situations like these that inspire dogs to get possessive.

6)  Don't feed the dogs in close proximity.  Place the bowls at least 6 feet apart and then remove them from the floor when the dogs finish eating. 

Above all else, relax and enjoy this moment.  It really is a magical thing to witness. 

Tail Language

Dogs convey their feelings in all sorts of ways.  They speak to us through vocalizations like barking, growling, and yelping.  They speak to us by bristling fur, exposing teeth, and the posture of their body, head, ears, and tail.  Most of us are good at interpreting these signals but sometimes the wires can get a little crossed.  Maybe your dog is growling but his front end is dropped to the ground.  Is he going to attack or does he want to play?  This is why it's good to study each of the ways that your dog communicates in order to get a complete picture.  After all, you don't want to punish your dog for playing and you don't want him to start a fight either.  In this post, I'd like to discuss tail position.  The following is a general description of the various tail positions and if your dog could speak, what he might be saying.  Keep in mind that if your dog's tail is naturally curled over the back (think Siberian Husky) or naturally tucked between the legs (Greyhound) that some of these don't apply.

Wagging from side to side, parallel to the ground - "Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!!  This is SO awesome!! I'm so happy to see you!  I love you!  Did I tell you that?  I love you.  I love you. I love you."  And the wider your pup is wagging his tail the more excited he is.

Tail tucked between legs - "I'm scared."

Tail slightly raised but not yet parallel to the ground, may be wagging - "You're in charge.  I'm gonna relax and enjoy myself."

Tail parallel to the ground - "Hmmm, what's this?"

Tail parallel to the ground and stiff - "Hmmm, what's this?  I'm not sure if I'm going to like it."

Tail pointing up -  "This is my territory.  I just want to make sure you know that."

Tail pointing up and stiff with the tip curved forward - "I'm king of the world!!!  You may all bow to me now."

Above all else, get to know your dog's personal signals.  Tail position alone won't tell you everything but it might give you a clue.

Reduce Pet Overpopulation - Get a new license plate!

Hi Folks-
The California Veterinary Board is sponsoring a brand new pet lover's license plate.  Proceeds from these plates provide funding for low-cost spay and neuter services throughout California.  It features artwork by actor, Pierce Brosnan, of an adorable dog and kitty. Take a look at the link below:

http://www.caspayplate.com/

Is Your Cat A Decorator?

Ms. Claudia's paws

Cats make excellent home decorators.  At least, they think they do.  The problem with their style of decorating is too much fringe.  If they had their way, every piece of furniture in your home would be covered in ripped strands of fabric from their sharp little claws.   I can't tell you how often I've pushed a sofa into a corner or added one too many throws to a chair to cover up kitty's recent decorating job.  I've tried all the methods you can think of to stop her clawing sessions:  spray bottle, sticky strips,  yelling and screaming (doesn't work.  do not try.) and sour apple spray.  Most of these were met with haughty looks of annoyance and silent snickering behind lethal paws.  Well, I've finally found something that works and though I'm not into product endorsement (I am not receiving compensation in any way for this post), I thought I needed to share this with you because it has cut down on my frustration significantly.   The product is called Soft Paws and they are basically plastic claw covers.   You put them on and within a month or two they fall off naturally as your cat sheds layers of her claws.  When you order the kit, they supply you with the plastic tips and glue.  The trick here is getting kitty to let you hold her paws long enough to apply them. To overcome this hurdle, start touching your cat's paws when petting her.  Just a little bit everyday.  Eventually, she'll get used to it.  To apply the covers, you trim the very tip of her claws, put a drop of glue inside the plastic tip, flex one of kitty's digits, then put on the tip and hold for about 15 seconds.  It dries very quickly.  After you finish applying them all, you'll want to monitor her for about 15 minutes to make sure she doesn't try and pull them off.  She'll still go through the motion of clawing but won't be able to tear anything.  Every once in a while she'll pull one off during a claw grooming session, so you just replace the missing one. They come in a variety of colors.  The picture above shows Ms. Claudia wearing the pink and blue combo pack.  If you'd like to order some for your little rascal, go to  www.softpaws.com  

Lastly, whatever method you end up using to save your furniture, never declaw your cat.  Declawing is severely detrimental to your cat's body and mind.